Michigan Weimaraner Rescue Inc.

Weimaraner Behavior

Raven has earned her Tracking dog title and is training for the next level Six month old Raven (right) was an owner relinquishment, coming to a shelter as she was "too wild". She would repeat rapid, consistent repetitions of sit, shake, speak and down for minutes on end when focused, but otherwise she was "totally out of control". You are blessed when a dog comes into your life and is not only a good companion, but has the ability to be a working partner. That is my Raven, who now at two year sets the example; she helps me teach manners to countless dogs in public obedience classes. Chris Conklin Raven was adopted from Michigan Weimaraner Rescue

CASSIOPEIA, CDX, TDX, VCD1(TD, CD, NA, NAJ), RA, NSD, V, CGC, “CASSIE” Cassie came to us in February, 2004 as foster dog but after just a week of her bubbly personality and willingness to please, we knew she was there to stay. At the ripe old age of 7 months, we were her third home. Cassie is also a regular instructor in my puppy classes. She is a natural alpha among the dogs and teaches them very nice dog manners in a very appropriate manner. Sally Bushwaller Cassie was adopted from Northern Illinois Weimaraner Rescue

Diesel Dozer, NSD, NRD, and one leg JH He is owned and handled by Jacob Graney. Diesel is a wonderful hunting companion. He was adopted from Michigan Weimaraner Rescue

Separation Anxiety

Separation anxiety is a common problem with Weimaraners that can have many precluding factors, including but not limited: to genetics, litter rearing, dominance, submission and boredom or stress. The causes of separation anxiety are not nearly as important as is the need to overcome the behavioral manifestations of the condition. Below is an ever-growing inventory of suggestions on dealing with these behaviors.

The safest confinement methods must be used to prevent the dog from seriously injuring itself or doing severe property damage, often in the thousands of dollars. The crate should become a ritual part of the pet's day, consistently use the crate at scheduled times and often when you are home. If the crate is not an integral part of the dog's day, the crate will soon become associated with separation. A strong crate of the correct size is an important factor in helping anxiety prone dogs. Invest in a quality crate with sturdy welds; sometimes even a high quality plastic or wire crate may need further fortification depending on the dog, and there are various methods for reinforcing both types.

Many pets prefer the plastic kennels to the wire, as they afford a greater sense of security. In selecting a kennel, the height should measure taller than the dog can arch his back, and make certain you feel no give when you try to shake the door; the dog will frantically attempt escape through any areas it can feel movement.
Position the crate in either the activity center of the home, the owner's bedroom, or even have one in each area. The dog should not feel isolated; if you wouldn't go there to sit and read a book, your Weim doesn't want to be there either.

Treats used in training should only be given outside the kennel; all other feeding, including regular daily meals and especially all extra treats are given within the crate.
When kenneling the dog, use a specific command in a quiet, firm, authoritative voice; if you say "Aww, come on, you gotta get into your bed now…" the dog will become reluctant and refuse to go in his crate, as you sound as if you don't really want him in there at all. If the dog won't enter the crate willingly, physically put him into the crate without any delay or coaxing.

When you prepare to leave home, complete at least three ritual behaviors before he enters the crate: the dog goes outside, comes in, does a short down stay, gets a treat for the correct behavior, and is then kenneled at least 15 minutes before you go.

He should be left in the crate for five to ten minutes after you return home, and after you've had time to observe three ritual behaviors: take off your shoes, listen to messages, and pour a glass of wine, for example. Ignore all unwanted behaviors he exhibits in his crate just as if he was invisible and you were deaf.

Then, if the dog is not barking, he is allowed out of his cage; if you are beginning training, a treat can be given to quiet him. After he is out of the crate, he should then be ignored for two full minutes; if he refuses to be ignored and doesn't remain composed, put the dog on a leash and stand on it where it hits the ground to limit his actions. Invest in a chain leash should the dog try to chew on it to get your attention.

Never clean the kennel of his saliva or waste in his presence, as you will seem submissive. For bedding, use cheap blankets cut into quarters; if the dog destroys the blanket, little is lost. The dog should always have a blanket in his crate, even if he destroys it every day. The only exception is if the dog actually will ingest the blanket.

Try to wear the dog out physically and mentally before he is to be left alone; a 15-minute walk or out to go potty is not nearly enough. At least 20 minutes of real exercising or running, along with a 10-minute obedience drill works wonders on the dog's attitude before you leave.

Weimaraners are very intelligent dogs and need outlets for their capabilities. Enroll him in some type of classes, or give him a hobby such as: obedience, agility, hunting or therapy dog work. If Weims don't have mental stimulation, they get overly fixated on their owners, often in such an unhealthy way as to create separation anxiety. Many of these dogs can benefit from doggie day care.

When the dog is to be left alone in his kennel, several things can be done that may help thwart anxiety:
- You can put on your shoes and coat out of sight of the dog.
- Go out a door where the dog isn't sure if you actually left.
- Try playing a radio or covering the crate with a blanket.
- Give the dog a Kong toy frozen with peanut butter or cheese whiz for a pacifier.
- Sometimes herbal remedies, flower essences, homeopathic, or even using prescription medications such as Clomicalm may help reduce the anxiety level.

Many Weims have personality traits common to dogs suffering from separation anxiety; often it is an issue of owner management than as to degree. When your dog knows what to expect from you and what your expectations of him are, he will have the greatest security, and at the same time unwanted behaviors are depleted.

Separation Anxiety Help:
Go to groups@yahoogroups.com and sign in to the k9sepanx group; there is a wealth of information in the archives.
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/k9sepanx/

Pro Select makes crates that will hold wild animals (Empire series)
http://www.dogtownco.com/site/catalog/product_col.aspx/catid/103

*Another good link is http://www.schnauzerama.org/sa_weim.htm(attached article is also on this site)

* Try to go to a lower protein food. Some people go as low as 10% while working on the SA.

* Lots and lots of exercise and training

* Get these two excellent books by Dr. Patricia McConnell: "Leader of the Pack" and "I'll Be Home Soon." The first will help establish a better relationship between you and your dog and he will be calmer when he really understands his position; and the second deals with both preventing and curing SA. You can get them from Dr. McConnell's website: http://www.dogsbestfriend.com or from Amazon.com

* Another good read is "The Dog Who Loved Too Much" by Dr. Nicholas Dodman

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Integrating Cats and Dogs

Dogs and cats have been part of family lives for thousands of years. The dog came first, about 10,000 or more years ago, and the cat followed about 5000 years ago, when Egyptians enticed him to dine on rodents that ate the grains stored in silos.

Both have played major roles in the development of civilization: the dog as willing helper, companion, and guardian; the cat as roommate, mouser extraordinaire, and enigma. Dogs earn such descriptions as faithful, affectionate, and courageous; cats are aloof, elegant, and often devilish. Dogs are pack animals, cats are loners, but each species touches something in humans that is unreachable by the other.

Physical differences are obvious. All domestic cats are cut from a similar cloth. Although there are variations in coat type, head and body shape, and size, cats lack the depth and breadth of differences found in dog breeds. The tiny Chihuahua with its smooth or long coat and big, pointed ears is as much a dog as the huge Great Dane, but a child unfamiliar with either may not recognize them as the same species. Cats don't fool anyone - at least with their appearance.

Are they enemies?
The idea that dogs hate cats may have been born because dogs chase cats, and grew because cartoons depicted ongoing battles between the two species. Or it may have been generated because some dog people strongly dislike cats and some cat people disdain dogs. However, dogs and cats can live peaceably as long as owners understand the behaviors of each.

Both dogs and cats are predators. Cats pounce on anything that moves - mice, butterflies, birds, grasshoppers, and feathery toys waved on the end of a stick. Dogs chase anything that moves, especially if it squeals, hisses, or otherwise mouths off. If the cat triggers the dog's prey drive, the dog will chase. If a medium-to-large dog catches the cat, it can easily kill it by grabbing and shaking. Kittens and young cats practice their hunting skills on people feet, curtains, bedspreads, plants, and dog tails. They hide under chairs and tables, dart at the "prey" hissing and spitting and clawing, and hurry away, sometimes with jerky jack-knife movements or agile leaps and bounds, sometimes with breathtaking grace and beauty.

Dogs often bristle at such challenges, leading to a merry chase through the house or yard. Households with both species of pets can solve this problem by keeping them separated if necessary. In some cases, a resident cat will isolate itself when a puppy is added to the family. In other cases, cats and dogs never get used to each other. In still other cases, cat or kitten and dog or puppy play together and build a friendship that finds them curled up together in a crate or bed and drinking out of the same bowl. The type of relationship developed in each household depends on the personality of the animals and the understanding of the owners.

Behavior Differences:
Cats are independent creatures. The least independent cat is more independent than the most independent dog. Cats exude an aura of self-confidence, of mastery over their territory and its inhabitants. Most cats do not deign to obey commands, and if they do, pleasing a human is probably the last thing on their minds. Fido is driven to fit into a family hierarchy; Felix could care less as long as his basic needs are met. Cats are physically and mentally capable of exploring their surroundings in great detail. Dogs are physically clumsy in comparison, for their bodies are not as agile and they are mentally tuned to different stations - they concentrate on dominance and submission, play, and keeping track of the people in their lives instead of exploration. As pets they can complement each other well for those families that need or want the independence of a cat combined with the faithfulness of a dog.

Integrating Cats and Dogs:
Always supervise cats and dogs until you know they will get along. Some adult dogs will carry kittens around, and young kittens will accept this attention, but it's probably best to gently take the kitten away from the dog to avoid injury. If you have more than one dog, do not allow them to gang up on the cat. Two dogs make a small pack; the cat may look like quarry to one and he may entice the other into a hunt. It's best to introduce the cat to one dog at a time so that each dog understands that the cat is part of the family, not an object of play or prey.

Make sure the dog does not have access to the cat's litter box. Sooner or later, unless you can check the box several times a day and clean it immediately, Fido will eat the cat droppings. Some owners handle this problem by placing the litter box in a room accessible by a cat door so the dog can't get in.

Separate cats and dogs at mealtime. As complete carnivores, cats need a diet that includes the amino acid taurine; if the dog eats the cat's food and all the cat gets is leavings in the dog bowl, the cat might develop a dietary deficiency. In addition, a dog that guards his food could attack the cat or gulp his meals too quickly and develop digestive problems. Don't leave thawing meat, cooling desserts, or any other food or scraps where a cat can get them. Not only will the cat jump to the table or counter or even spill the waste- basket, he will either drop things on the floor for the dog or send the dog into a frenzy of frustrated whining and barking. Some dogs will bark whenever a cat leaps or climbs to a surface used for food.

If your dog has a high prey drive, make sure to teach the command "leave it" so you can control his chase impulse. It's best to prevent the pursuit, because once the chase sequence starts, the dog will likely be deaf to instructions. Make sure the cat gets plenty of opportunity to stalk and pounce on things other than the dog's tail. Pay attention to both pets as often as possible. You can tell Fido to "down-stay" while you hold the kitten in your lap and tell him matter-of-factly that this newcomer is now part of the family and you will accept no rough stuff. Often the attitude and attention of the owner is enough to prevent serious rivalries or hostilities from developing. For details on introducing a kitten to a high-prey-drive dog, see "Making peace between dogs and cats" by Vicki DeGruy.

- Norma Bennett Woolf

Jumping Up

Three methods that can all be used separately or in combination, depending on the situation:

Abolishment: Or stopping the behavior, does not train the correct behavior, but prevents undesired behavior. In the case of jumping, leash the dog, then step on the leash right where it hits the ground, which will prevent the dog from jumping up. Or remove her from the situation entirely.

Extinction: Or ignoring the behavior, also does not teach a correct behavior, but if the dog is not rewarded with attention, they will stop any behavior. Ignoring includes ALL eye contact or sounds. IMHO, this is the best owner used method, but does take the longest for results. This means completely ignoring her till she disassociates and goes off to something new.

Alternative behavior: This is teaching the dog an alternative behavior that rewards their motivation. In the case of jumping, that would be the sit position. The dog only gets attention when they are sitting.
So, put them all together for training: the dog gets leashed when you come home or someone new comes in, very first thing. Next, step on the leash and totally ignore her till she settles and sits. Then, tell her sit/stay and approach to pet her; if she breaks and jumps, turn away. At this point, you can go back to ignoring her or you can command another sit/stay. Handler or Petter can use food to hasten the learning curve and improve her motivation for the task. If she stays seated, she gets the treat or the attention she craves.

If she is jumping and you don't have the leash handy, put your knee up to block her. DON'T thrust her, but you have every right to keep her off of you. Or grab her collar and hold her down.
Never "allow" her to jump on anyone until you curb the behavior; for instance if 'somebody doesn't mind', or 'that's how they always give her cuddles'.

Follow a "four on the floor rule" and never pet her if she has her back feet on the floor with the front feet standing in your lap or on furniture.

If you are going to casually pet or cuddle her when she is not excited, ask her to sit first each time to further instill this positive behavior.

Introducing Dogs Into Your Home

When you are bringing a new dog home, either for foster or because you have just adopted a new family member, how you interact with the dog in the first 24 to 48 hours is critical to the dogs' perception of its new family. Bring the dog into the home on leash. DO NOT let the dog run all over your house sniffing and possibly marking. This is your home and you want him to understand from the beginning that he will be required to respect it as yours.

Make sure all existing family dogs are crated or shut away and don't parade your new dog past them. Children should be calm and respectful of the dog and his space and not crowd the dog or become over excited.

Take the dog to the room his crate is in. For foster dogs this should be in a somewhat isolated area such as a laundry room or spare bedroom, but should not be in an area exposed to the general populace of dogs. (IF THIS IS A DOG DIRECTLY FROM A SHELTER, HE MUST BE KEPT IN THIS AREA 7 TO 10 DAYS).

Let the dog stay in his crate to adjust to the sounds and smells of your household. If he is throwing a temper tantrum, let him, and IGNORE IT!!!!!! The dog is testing you. If you let him out now, you will have continued struggles with the dog and may have to return it to the foster home or area rescue coordinator.

The dog should be taken out only for potty and exercise times. Often times, your new dog may have already met his new doggie brother or sister at the foster home. This is not the same as meeting your current dogs; please give your new rescue dog time to adjust so that he is not forced to show unwanted behavior like growing in either dominance or submission.

Now is not the time to invite family and friends to meet your new dog or take him on a trip to the pet store. Give him a day or two minimum to adjust to his new home. Take him out on lead; this dog has not bonded to you yet. Do not trust him off line even in a fenced in area (use a long line). He needs to learn that the "come" command can be reinforced. Keep him on line for at least 30 days.

If this is an adopted dog, he should be started in obedience classes after he has been in your home for 3 or 4 weeks. Give him a hobby. If Weims don't have a job to do they get fixated on their owner in an unhealthy way, possibly causing separation anxiety and/or other unwanted behaviors.

Introduce current dogs one at a time in a non overwhelming way; don't let the dogs rush up to one another or intimidate. The dogs should not be alone together unsupervised in the house or yard until they know each other well.
If you have cats in your home, keep your new dog on leash until you feel safe he will not go after them. Do not "show" the cat to the dog or try to introduce them.

Feeding should be done twice a day in the crate. Food should be left out for 15 minutes or so then taken away. Your dog should have access to water when not crated.

You have to use the crate as a ritual part of his day, when you are at home sometimes as well. Otherwise, the crate is associated with separation. The crate should be in a portion of the household you actively live in. (If you wouldn't go there to sit and read a book, he doesn't want to be there either).

Be very careful about your tone of voice when kenneling. "Aww come-ooonn, you gotta get in your kennel nowww", won't work. Sounds like you feel guilty putting him in there. You should say "Kennel up!" in a firm commanding voice. Crate him at least 15 minutes before you leave. He should be left in the crate five to ten minutes after you get home. He should then be let out and ignored for two minutes. Don't let him out of the crate if he is barking. Ignore any behavior he exhibits in there as if he was invisible and you were deaf.

Adopters, please maintain a leadership role with a maximum of routine and try not to give free love or cuddle the dog excessively the first 48 hours. Then your new pet will enter the household feeling like he must make an effort to belong to you. Much better than spoiling him with lavish attention and letting him think he can get away with anything. Most of all good luck, and have fun!

Six Rules For Raising Obedient, Happy Weimaraners and for Developing Skilled, Loving People Who Are Owned By Them

1. Sleeping
Things to remember: Dogs are pack animals and sleep best if they hear breathing Sleep training should begin in a crate, in the owner's room. Only well trained dogs should be allowed on their owner's bed.

2. Eating
Things to Remember: Twice a day scheduled feeding is best. (Three times daily for puppies). Regular feedings make the dog feel comfortable and secure. Interruptions and distractions while your dog is eating make him/her more comfortable with these "real life" conditions. For dominant or nervous dogs, training sessions can be incorporated into the feeding routine.

3. Resting/Hanging Out
Things to Remember: Dogs are creatures of habit and seek comfortable resting spots. Dogs need to know that the house is your territory.
They should stand when you enter a room and move before you sit down.
If your dog is always in your way, train them to go to his/her place, such as a bed or crate.

4. Exercise and Play
Things to Remember: Dogs thrive on games that challenge them both mentally and physically. Games with rules are best for their development.
Dogs learn through repetition. Dogs need to respect all family members as persons in authority.
Do not use confrontational games such as tug-of-war, which gives dogs the opportunity to growl and challenge their owner.

5. Attention Seeking/Jumping & Mouthing
Things to Remember: Jumping and mouthing are normal puppy behaviors. Teaching a more appropriate behavior (sitting, standing) shows the dog that the way to get attention is to perform the desired behavior instead of the undesirable behavior.
Negative attention (which still provides attention), is the least effective means of dealing with these behaviors.

6. Hunting Behavior/Territory
Things to Remember: Your dog must learn that all territory belongs to you.
The dog should stop and wait while you look around before leaving or entering. Don’t let him/her rush past you or charge doors; teaching a sit and stay will help eliminate this behavior.
If your dog is overexcited at a new territory, stand on his/her leash and ignore him until he/she calms down. Or, redirect his/her attention with food or a toy.

Walking the Dog

Head Halties or Gentle Leaders- work best on shy dogs and dogs that are apt to lunge, bark, etc. at passersby or other dogs and such. The acclimation period can take lots of time and food (treats) for some dogs. Halti now makes a great product that has an extra tab attaching it to the leash, as well as the collar, for safety- if the dog pulls the head harness off which is a common problem. Dogs in head harnesses for extended use (not suggested) should be encouraged to change sides to prevent neck and or back strain.

Pinch collars work excellent on adolescent dogs whose owners have become portable trees, adult dogs who only ignore you in public (like having an affair with a married man, they only pay attention to you in private), and for owners whose physical capabilities can't assure personal safety when handling their dog (IMHO, the only reason for extended use of this equipment). Pinch collars should never be used on dogs who exhibit any aggressiveness, even passive aggressive behavior, as the pinch collar corrects as a bite on the neck and can exasperate social behavioral problems. Fitted correctly, they should not move freely up and down the dog's neck nor should they indent (they can cause injury if fitted too tight and the dog lunges). The prongs should be on the top of the neck. The plastic tips are for short haired breeds such as Weims, or for use as a step down in correction value. A short coupler can be attached from the pinch collar to the flat ID collar in case the dog scratches the pinch off.

Sport harnesses and front snap harnesses are in my opinion the best alternative in the situation of the casual walker or runner, who just wants a relaxing experience without involving lots of social contact or dog
training. They slow the dog, or turn them completely around. They do not
work well for extremely dominant dogs or dogs with a tendency to displace when lunging as you have no control over the head.

All of the above pieces of equipment are obtrusive in nature to the dog, and in many cases their prolonged use creates a dog who becomes an "equipment snob"; in other words, their respect is for the power of the equipment but not their handler. So I suggest none of the above for prolonged use, but best in the process of training and then weaning back to the plain flat buckle collar.

Choke Chains are good training tools, when used properly with the sharp snap and jerk; but they are also the most frequently misused collars. The handler may continue to restrain the dog after the correction has been given, or tend to reel the dog in like a fish. The other drawback is that the collar can only be correctly used for one side of the dog and will automatically become a noose (possibly causing damage to the dog) if the dog changes sides or the handler puts it on incorrectly.

Martigales: The check choke (sent out with alot of the rescues) is the collar I am suggesting most in cases. It is flat nylon, with a chain loop, allowing for a good solid restriction correction, but does not restrict air flow. There is also no right or wrong way to put them on; they just slip over the dog's head and are fitted to the neck, with the stop rings being about an inch apart. If a dog has been allowed to pull previously, one of the more obtrusive pieces of equipment above may be necessary until the dog can be weaned back to the check choke.

Premier or Lupine collars are same as above, but all in nylon; these are commonly seen on grey hound and dogs with sensitive necks but still in need of some correction. IMHO the best collar to use just before stepping down to the plain buckle ID collar.

All of the above equipment is for training use and should not be left on an unattended dog. All dogs should wear a flat collar with ID at all times. No matter how well we train them, they will never be able to recite their name, address and phone number.

Pulling on leash: This behavior (above all others) is more a matter of consistency and patience on the handler's part. First, imagine going shopping with a very elderly person who moves excruciatingly slow... that is what our dogs must feel like when walking with us. Second, also remember that dogs are perpetual optimists- they will think "if it worked once it will work again"; so, if your dog has ever been allowed to pull or drag you along, they will attempt it every time without fail.

One of my favorite stories is of an elderly couple coming in the first night of obedience class with a 20 lb Schnoodle, in a harness, dragging them at the end of the leash. This dog looked like a small Husky with its shoulders thrust forward; I don't doubt it could have pulled two or three hundred pounds. The wife had two black eyes and a broken nose, apparently the one year old dog had pulled her down a week previous. The husband declared he did not care if the dog learned anything else in class, but if it did not quit pulling, they would have to "get rid of it, which would break both their hearts". I explained that it was a matter of making a commitment that the leash would never get tight when you are in motion.

You can do anything, from standing still until the dog returns and the leash is slack, to pulling the dog so hard it flips over backwards. You can use any piece of equipment from a true spike collar (MUCH worse than a pinch collar) to a regular harness, but you can never move if the leash is tight! The only time the leash is ever tight is if you are correcting the dog, and you are in mid jerk.

Well, quite honestly, the pulling behavior appeared so ingrained in this pup, and the owner so conditioned to restraint, that I did not hold out much hope for success with this team. Week two of class, they arrive with Muffy walking politely at the man's side. There was NO PULLING, even less on a harness!!! You could have knocked me over with a feather! In shock, I asked 'how did they do it?' He replied "I figured I am retired, what else do I have to do? So the first day, it took us 45 minutes to get off the front porch; day two, only 50 minutes to the drive way." After a week of training he was able to go down the block on a loose lead. He sheepishly announced they had arrived at the school at 5:45 for our 7:00 class. And I wondered why they were 15 minutes early.

House Breaking

Can you see me? Sniffing and circling, sniffing and circling,
Nose to the ground, nose to the ground,
Can you see me? Urgent now,
I'm to bust, I'm to bust,
Too late deed is done.
"Stupid dog" she says; "Why can't you tell me when you need to go out?"

1. Rule out all medical issues, such as kidney, bladder and incontinence. If a dog is unable to control themselves, punishment is not fair. DO NOT assume that because a pet can hold it for longer times when resting or sleeping that it is not a medical issue; there may be problems that are not immediately apparent.

2. Confine and supervise the dog/puppy. He/she should be with you at all times, or in the crate or other confinement area. All dogs, (especially those who are using their owners homes as a toilet), need to have an area for safe confinement.

3. TAKE the dog to the same area outdoors each time and reward them when they go. Do not let them out and just assume they are doing their business. It's possible to train dogs to signal when they need out; many dogs are successful at learning to ring a bell to let you know when nature is calling them.

4. When the dog makes a mistake in the house, immediately remove them from area of the "accident" as soon as you discover it. NEVER take the dog back for correction while the mess is still there. (The area should be cleaned, but not in the dog's presence, as it appears submissive when we show interest in their waste and confusing to them that we are then repulsed by it. Watch how puppies follow and will even sometimes eat stools of a more dominant individual).

5. Cleaning the area: make certain you do not use a product with ammonia, as it spreads the urine scent and will promote the dog returning to the same spot (I use club soda and dish soap). Once it is clean, swab the area with white vinegar and return with the dog (vinegar is an alternate acidic odor).

6. Correction: while holding the dog on leash, and looking at the area of the mess (not the dog!!), throw a 20 second hissy fit about how much this upsets you. Regardless of what the correction is for, if you look at a dog while giving a correction rather than at the object or area of your displeasure, more often than not they become more distracted by, and focused on, your anger rather than their transgression. Voicing your displeasure, while directing attention over violated territory such as the area where they had an accident or where they spread trash on the floor, rather than making eye contact with the dog, keeps them focused on the mistake. After the correction (your 'voiced displeasure'), take the leash off of the dog and keep her/him in the same room as you, but totally ignore them; not even eye contact for 15 minutes. Often, they will sniff around and check the area out during your ignoring period, glancing furtively back at you.

Retraining the Adult Dog:
When accidents 1 through 3 occur, make the dog quickly smell a clean paper towel with vinegar on it. For accidents 3 and thereafter, make the dog QUICKLY taste the vinegar on the paper towel.
Again, make certain to rule out any medical problems, especially with older dogs that 'know better' or show sudden changes in their habits.

Michigan Weimaraner Rescue Inc. Copyright 2007