Michigan Weimaraner Rescue Inc.
It takes someone special who can see the possibilities
in the most
"Bullheadedness" is really perserverence.
"Sneaky" is ingeniousness.
"Destruction" is creative playing with toys at
"Hyper" is a dog full of energy waiting to be
Sadie (at left) We adopted Sadie
back in December of 1999 when we drove to Belleville IL, to meet
with Becky and Don Weimar. Sadie is not the fastest dog in the world,
but is very consistent. Her nickname at our club is "Steady
Sadie". On March 26th, Sadie achieved her 750th point and she
gained her MACH title. For the "dog that could not be trained",
she has certainly come a long way; I am so pleased that her first
owners gave her up, as I cannot imagine my life without her. She
has introduced me to the world of agility, countless friends and
Sadie was adopted from Weimaraner Club Of America/WFF
Raven has earned her Tracking
dog title and is training for the next level
Six month old Raven (right) was an owner relinquishment,
coming to a shelter as she was "too wild". She would repeat
rapid, consistent repetitions of sit, shake, speak and down for
minutes on end when focused, but otherwise she was "totally
out of control".
You are blessed when a dog comes into your life and is not only
a good companion, but has the ability to be a working partner. That
is my Raven, who now at two year sets the example; she helps me
teach manners to countless dogs in public obedience classes.
Raven was adopted from Michigan Weimaraner Rescue
CASSIOPEIA, CDX, TDX, VCD1(TD, CD, NA, NAJ), RA, NSD,
Cassie came to us in February, 2004 as foster dog but after just
a week of her bubbly
personality and willingness to please, we knew she was there to
the ripe old age of 7 months, we were her third home. Cassie is
also a regular instructor in my puppy classes. She is a
natural alpha among the dogs and teaches them very nice dog manners
in a very appropriate manner.
Cassie was adopted from Northern Illinois Weimaraner Rescue
Dozer, NSD, NRD, and one leg JH
He is owned and handled by Jacob Graney.
Diesel is a wonderful hunting companion.
He was adopted from Michigan Weimaraner Rescue
We are proud at MWR to
be able to provide each adopter with continuing professional training
and behavioral support.
Back to the Top
Separation anxiety is a common problem with Weimaraners
that can have many precluding factors, including but not limited: to genetics,
litter rearing, dominance, submission and boredom or stress. The causes
of separation anxiety are not nearly as important as is the need to overcome
the behavioral manifestations of the condition. Below is an ever-growing
inventory of suggestions on dealing with these behaviors.
The safest confinement methods must be used to prevent the dog from seriously
injuring itself or doing severe property damage, often in the thousands
of dollars. The crate should become a ritual part of the pet's day, consistently
use the crate at scheduled times and often when you are home. If the crate
is not an integral part of the dog's day, the crate will soon become associated
with separation. A strong crate of the correct size is an important factor
in helping anxiety prone dogs. Invest in a quality crate with sturdy welds;
sometimes even a high quality plastic or wire crate may need further fortification
depending on the dog, and there are various methods for reinforcing both
Many pets prefer the plastic kennels to the wire, as they afford a greater
sense of security. In selecting a kennel, the height should measure taller
than the dog can arch his back, and make certain you feel no give when
you try to shake the door; the dog will frantically attempt escape through
any areas it can feel movement.
Position the crate in either the activity center of the home, the owner's
bedroom, or even have one in each area. The dog should not feel isolated;
if you wouldn't go there to sit and read a book, your Weim doesn't want
to be there either.
Treats used in training should only be given outside the kennel; all other
feeding, including regular daily meals and especially all extra treats
are given within the crate.
When kenneling the dog, use a specific command in a quiet, firm, authoritative
voice; if you say "Aww, come on, you gotta get into your bed now…" the
dog will become reluctant and refuse to go in his crate, as you sound
as if you don't really want him in there at all. If the dog won't enter
the crate willingly, physically put him into the crate without any delay
When you prepare to leave home, complete at least three ritual behaviors
before he enters the crate: the dog goes outside, comes in, does a short
down stay, gets a treat for the correct behavior, and is then kenneled
at least 15 minutes before you go.
He should be left in the crate for five to ten minutes after you return
home, and after you've had time to observe three ritual behaviors: take
off your shoes, listen to messages, and pour a glass of wine, for example.
Ignore all unwanted behaviors he exhibits in his crate just as if he was
invisible and you were deaf.
Then, if the dog is not barking, he is allowed out of his cage; if you
are beginning training, a treat can be given to quiet him. After he is
out of the crate, he should then be ignored for two full minutes; if he
refuses to be ignored and doesn't remain composed, put the dog on a leash
and stand on it where it hits the ground to limit his actions. Invest
in a chain leash should the dog try to chew on it to get your attention.
Never clean the kennel of his saliva or waste in his presence, as you
will seem submissive. For bedding, use cheap blankets cut into quarters;
if the dog destroys the blanket, little is lost. The dog should always
have a blanket in his crate, even if he destroys it every day. The only
exception is if the dog actually will ingest the blanket.
Try to wear the dog out physically and mentally before he is to be left
alone; a 15-minute walk or out to go potty is not nearly enough. At least
20 minutes of real exercising or running, along with a 10-minute obedience
drill works wonders on the dog's attitude before you leave.
Weimaraners are very intelligent dogs and need outlets for their capabilities.
Enroll him in some type of classes, or give him a hobby such as: obedience,
agility, hunting or therapy dog work. If Weims don't have mental stimulation,
they get overly fixated on their owners, often in such an unhealthy way
as to create separation anxiety. Many of these dogs can benefit from doggie
When the dog is to be left alone in his kennel, several things can be
done that may help thwart anxiety:
- You can put on your shoes and coat out of sight of the dog.
- Go out a door where the dog isn't sure if you actually left.
- Try playing a radio or covering the crate with a blanket.
- Give the dog a Kong toy frozen with peanut butter or cheese whiz for
- Sometimes herbal remedies, flower essences, homeopathic, or even using
prescription medications such as Clomicalm may help reduce the anxiety
Many Weims have personality traits common to dogs suffering from separation
anxiety; often it is an issue of owner management than as to degree. When
your dog knows what to expect from you and what your expectations of him
are, he will have the greatest security, and at the same time unwanted
behaviors are depleted.
Separation Anxiety Help:
Go to firstname.lastname@example.org and sign in to the k9sepanx group; there
is a wealth of information in the archives.
K9 Pet Supply makes crates that will hold wild
animals (Empire series)
*Another good link is
http://www.schnauzerama.org/sa_weim.htm(attached article is also on
* Try to go to a lower protein food. Some people go as low as 10% while
working on the SA.
* Lots and lots of exercise and training
* Get these two excellent books by Dr. Patricia McConnell: "Leader
of the Pack" and "I'll Be Home Soon." The first will help
establish a better relationship between you and your dog and he will be
calmer when he really understands his position; and the second deals with
both preventing and curing SA. You can get them from Dr. McConnell's website:
or from Amazon.com
* Another good read is "The Dog Who Loved Too Much" by Dr.
Back to the Top
Integrating Cats and Dogs
Dogs and cats have been part of family
lives for thousands of years. The dog came first, about 10,000 or more
years ago, and the cat followed about 5000 years ago, when Egyptians enticed
him to dine on rodents that ate the grains stored in silos.
Both have played major roles in the development of civilization: the dog
as willing helper, companion, and guardian; the cat as roommate, mouser
extraordinaire, and enigma. Dogs earn such descriptions as faithful, affectionate,
and courageous; cats are aloof, elegant, and often devilish. Dogs are
pack animals, cats are loners, but each species touches something in humans
that is unreachable by the other.
Physical differences are obvious. All domestic cats are cut from a similar
cloth. Although there are variations in coat type, head and body shape,
and size, cats lack the depth and breadth of differences found in dog
breeds. The tiny Chihuahua with its smooth or long coat and big, pointed
ears is as much a dog as the huge Great Dane, but a child unfamiliar with
either may not recognize them as the same species. Cats don't fool anyone
- at least with their appearance.
Are they enemies?
The idea that dogs hate cats may have been born because dogs chase cats,
and grew because cartoons depicted ongoing battles between the two species.
Or it may have been generated because some dog people strongly dislike
cats and some cat people disdain dogs. However, dogs and cats can live
peaceably as long as owners understand the behaviors of each.
Both dogs and cats are predators. Cats pounce on anything that moves -
mice, butterflies, birds, grasshoppers, and feathery toys waved on the
end of a stick. Dogs chase anything that moves, especially if it squeals,
hisses, or otherwise mouths off. If the cat triggers the dog's prey drive,
the dog will chase. If a medium-to-large dog catches the cat, it can easily
kill it by grabbing and shaking. Kittens and young cats practice their
hunting skills on people feet, curtains, bedspreads, plants, and dog tails.
They hide under chairs and tables, dart at the "prey" hissing and spitting
and clawing, and hurry away, sometimes with jerky jack-knife movements
or agile leaps and bounds, sometimes with breathtaking grace and beauty.
Dogs often bristle at such challenges, leading to a merry chase through
the house or yard. Households with both species of pets can solve this
problem by keeping them separated if necessary. In some cases, a resident
cat will isolate itself when a puppy is added to the family. In other
cases, cats and dogs never get used to each other. In still other cases,
cat or kitten and dog or puppy play together and build a friendship that
finds them curled up together in a crate or bed and drinking out of the
same bowl. The type of relationship developed in each household depends
on the personality of the animals and the understanding of the owners.
Cats are independent creatures. The least independent cat is more independent
than the most independent dog. Cats exude an aura of self-confidence,
of mastery over their territory and its inhabitants. Most cats do not
deign to obey commands, and if they do, pleasing a human is probably the
last thing on their minds. Fido is driven to fit into a family hierarchy;
Felix could care less as long as his basic needs are met. Cats are physically
and mentally capable of exploring their surroundings in great detail.
Dogs are physically clumsy in comparison, for their bodies are not as
agile and they are mentally tuned to different stations - they concentrate
on dominance and submission, play, and keeping track of the people in
their lives instead of exploration. As pets they can complement each other
well for those families that need or want the independence of a cat combined
with the faithfulness of a dog.
Integrating Cats and Dogs:
Always supervise cats and dogs until you know they will get along. Some
adult dogs will carry kittens around, and young kittens will accept this
attention, but it's probably best to gently take the kitten away from
the dog to avoid injury. If you have more than one dog, do not allow them
to gang up on the cat. Two dogs make a small pack; the cat may look like
quarry to one and he may entice the other into a hunt. It's best to introduce
the cat to one dog at a time so that each dog understands that the cat
is part of the family, not an object of play or prey.
Make sure the dog does not have access to the cat's litter box. Sooner
or later, unless you can check the box several times a day and clean it
immediately, Fido will eat the cat droppings. Some owners handle this
problem by placing the litter box in a room accessible by a cat door so
the dog can't get in.
Separate cats and dogs at mealtime. As complete carnivores, cats need
a diet that includes the amino acid taurine; if the dog eats the cat's
food and all the cat gets is leavings in the dog bowl, the cat might develop
a dietary deficiency. In addition, a dog that guards his food could attack
the cat or gulp his meals too quickly and develop digestive problems.
Don't leave thawing meat, cooling desserts, or any other food or scraps
where a cat can get them. Not only will the cat jump to the table or counter
or even spill the waste- basket, he will either drop things on the floor
for the dog or send the dog into a frenzy of frustrated whining and barking.
Some dogs will bark whenever a cat leaps or climbs to a surface used for
If your dog has a high prey drive, make sure to teach the command "leave
it" so you can control his chase impulse. It's best to prevent the pursuit,
because once the chase sequence starts, the dog will likely be deaf to
instructions. Make sure the cat gets plenty of opportunity to stalk and
pounce on things other than the dog's tail. Pay attention to both pets
as often as possible. You can tell Fido to "down-stay" while you hold
the kitten in your lap and tell him matter-of-factly that this newcomer
is now part of the family and you will accept no rough stuff. Often the
attitude and attention of the owner is enough to prevent serious rivalries
or hostilities from developing. For details on introducing a kitten to
a high-prey-drive dog, see "Making peace between dogs and cats" by Vicki
- Norma Bennett Woolf
Back to the Top
Three methods that can all be used separately or in combination,
depending on the situation:
Back to the Top
Abolishment: Or stopping the behavior, does not
train the correct behavior, but prevents undesired behavior.
In the case of jumping, leash the dog, then step on the leash right where
it hits the ground, which will prevent the dog from jumping up. Or remove
her from the situation entirely.
Extinction: Or ignoring the behavior, also does not teach
a correct behavior, but if the dog is not rewarded with attention,
they will stop any behavior. Ignoring includes ALL eye
contact or sounds. IMHO, this is the best owner used method, but does
take the longest for results. This means completely ignoring her till
she disassociates and goes off to something new.
Alternative behavior: This is teaching the dog an alternative
behavior that rewards their motivation. In the case of jumping, that would
be the sit position. The dog only gets attention when they are sitting.
So, put them all together for training: the dog gets leashed when you
come home or someone new comes in, very first thing. Next, step on the
leash and totally ignore her till she settles and sits. Then, tell her
sit/stay and approach to pet her; if she breaks and jumps, turn away.
At this point, you can go back to ignoring her or you can command another
sit/stay. Handler or Petter can use food to hasten the learning curve
and improve her motivation for the task. If she stays seated, she gets
the treat or the attention she craves.
If she is jumping and you don't have the leash handy, put your knee up
to block her. DON'T thrust her, but you have every right to keep her off
of you. Or grab her collar and hold her down.
Never "allow" her to jump on anyone until you curb the behavior;
for instance if 'somebody doesn't mind', or 'that's how they always give
Follow a "four on the floor rule" and never pet her if she has
her back feet on the floor with the front feet standing in your lap or
If you are going to casually pet or cuddle her when she is not excited,
ask her to sit first each time to further instill this positive behavior.
Introducing Dogs Into Your Home
When you are bringing a new dog home, either for foster
or because you have just adopted a new family member, how you interact
with the dog in the first 24 to 48 hours is critical to the dogs' perception
of its new family. Bring the dog into the home on leash. DO NOT
let the dog run all over your house sniffing and possibly marking. This
is your home and you want him to understand from
the beginning that he will be required to respect it as yours.
Back to the Top
Make sure all existing family dogs are crated or shut away and don't parade
your new dog past them. Children should be calm and respectful of the
dog and his space and not crowd the dog or become over excited.
Take the dog to the room his crate is in. For foster dogs this should
be in a somewhat isolated area such as a laundry room or spare bedroom,
but should not be in an area exposed to the general populace of dogs.
(IF THIS IS A DOG DIRECTLY FROM A SHELTER, HE MUST BE KEPT IN THIS AREA
7 TO 10 DAYS).
Let the dog stay in his crate to adjust to the sounds and smells of your
household. If he is throwing a temper tantrum, let him, and IGNORE
IT!!!!!! The dog is testing you. If you let him out now, you
will have continued struggles with the dog and may have to return it to
the foster home or area rescue coordinator.
The dog should be taken out only for potty and exercise times. Often times,
your new dog may have already met his new doggie brother or sister at
the foster home. This is not the same as meeting your current dogs; please
give your new rescue dog time to adjust so that he is not forced to show
unwanted behavior like growing in either dominance or submission.
Now is not the time to invite family and friends to meet your
new dog or take him on a trip to the pet store. Give him a day or two
minimum to adjust to his new home. Take him out on lead; this dog has
not bonded to you yet. Do not trust him off line even in a fenced in area
(use a long line). He needs to learn that the "come" command
can be reinforced. Keep him on line for at least 30 days.
If this is an adopted dog, he should be started in obedience classes after
he has been in your home for 3 or 4 weeks. Give him a hobby. If Weims
don't have a job to do they get fixated on their owner in an unhealthy
way, possibly causing separation anxiety and/or other unwanted behaviors.
Introduce current dogs one at a time in a non overwhelming way; don't
let the dogs rush up to one another or intimidate. The dogs should not
be alone together unsupervised in the house or yard until they know each
If you have cats in your home, keep your new dog on leash until you feel
safe he will not go after them. Do not "show" the cat to the
dog or try to introduce them.
Feeding should be done twice a day in the crate. Food should be left out
for 15 minutes or so then taken away. Your dog should have access to water
when not crated.
You have to use the crate as a ritual part of his day, when you are at
home sometimes as well. Otherwise, the crate is associated with separation.
The crate should be in a portion of the household you actively live in.
(If you wouldn't go there to sit and read a book, he doesn't want to be
Be very careful about your tone of voice when kenneling. "Aww come-ooonn,
you gotta get in your kennel nowww", won't work.
Sounds like you feel guilty putting him in there. You should say "Kennel
up!" in a firm commanding voice. Crate him at least 15 minutes
before you leave. He should be left in the crate five to ten minutes after
you get home. He should then be let out and ignored for two minutes. Don't
let him out of the crate if he is barking. Ignore any behavior he exhibits
in there as if he was invisible and you were deaf.
Adopters, please maintain a leadership role with a maximum
of routine and try not to give free love or cuddle the dog excessively
the first 48 hours. Then your new pet will enter the household feeling
like he must make an effort to belong to you. Much better than spoiling
him with lavish attention and letting him think he can get away with anything.
Most of all good luck, and have fun!
Six Rules For Raising Obedient, Happy Weimaraners and for Developing
Skilled, Loving People Who Are Owned By Them
Back to the Top
Things to remember: Dogs are pack animals and sleep best if they hear
breathing Sleep training should begin in a crate, in the owner's room.
Only well trained dogs should be allowed on their owner's bed.
Things to Remember: Twice a day scheduled feeding is best. (Three
times daily for puppies). Regular feedings make the dog feel comfortable
and secure. Interruptions and distractions while your dog is eating make
him/her more comfortable with these "real life" conditions. For dominant
or nervous dogs, training sessions can be incorporated into the feeding
3. Resting/Hanging Out
Things to Remember: Dogs are creatures of habit and seek comfortable
resting spots. Dogs need to know that the house is your territory.
They should stand when you enter a room and move before you sit down.
If your dog is always in your way, train them to go to his/her place,
such as a bed or crate.
4. Exercise and Play
Things to Remember: Dogs thrive on games that challenge them
both mentally and physically. Games with rules are best for their development.
Dogs learn through repetition. Dogs need to respect all family members
as persons in authority.
Do not use confrontational games such as tug-of-war, which gives dogs
the opportunity to growl and challenge their owner.
5. Attention Seeking/Jumping & Mouthing
Things to Remember: Jumping and mouthing are normal puppy behaviors.
Teaching a more appropriate behavior (sitting, standing) shows the dog
that the way to get attention is to perform the desired
behavior instead of the undesirable behavior.
Negative attention (which still provides attention), is the least
effective means of dealing with these behaviors.
6. Hunting Behavior/Territory
Things to Remember: Your dog must learn that all territory belongs
The dog should stop and wait while you look around before leaving or entering.
Don’t let him/her rush past you or charge doors; teaching a sit
and stay will help eliminate this behavior.
If your dog is overexcited at a new territory, stand on his/her leash
and ignore him until he/she calms down. Or, redirect his/her attention
with food or a toy.
Walking the Dog
Head Halties or Gentle Leaders- work
best on shy dogs and dogs that are apt to lunge, bark, etc. at passersby
or other dogs and such. The acclimation period can take lots of time and
food (treats) for some dogs. Halti now makes a great product that has
an extra tab attaching it to the leash, as well as the collar, for safety-
if the dog pulls the head harness off which is a common problem. Dogs
in head harnesses for extended use (not suggested) should be encouraged
to change sides to prevent neck and or back strain.
Back to the Top
Pinch collars work excellent on adolescent dogs whose owners
have become portable trees, adult dogs who only ignore you in public (like
having an affair with a married man, they only pay attention to you in
private), and for owners whose physical capabilities can't assure personal
safety when handling their dog (IMHO, the only reason for extended use
of this equipment). Pinch collars should never be used
on dogs who exhibit any aggressiveness, even passive aggressive
behavior, as the pinch collar corrects as a bite on the neck and can exasperate
social behavioral problems. Fitted correctly, they should not move freely
up and down the dog's neck nor should they indent (they can cause injury
if fitted too tight and the dog lunges). The prongs should be on the top
of the neck. The plastic tips are for short haired breeds such as Weims,
or for use as a step down in correction value. A short coupler can be
attached from the pinch collar to the flat ID collar in case the dog scratches
the pinch off.
Sport harnesses and front snap harnesses
are in my opinion the best alternative in the situation of the casual
walker or runner, who just wants a relaxing experience without involving
lots of social contact or dog
training. They slow the dog, or turn them completely around. They do not
work well for extremely dominant dogs or dogs with a tendency to displace
when lunging as you have no control over the head.
All of the above pieces of equipment are obtrusive in
nature to the dog, and in many cases their prolonged use creates a dog
who becomes an "equipment snob"; in other words, their respect
is for the power of the equipment but not their handler. So I suggest
none of the above for prolonged use, but best in the process of training
and then weaning back to the plain flat buckle collar.
Choke Chains are good training tools, when used properly
with the sharp snap and jerk; but they are also the most frequently misused
collars. The handler may continue to restrain the dog after the correction
has been given, or tend to reel the dog in like a fish. The other drawback
is that the collar can only be correctly used for one side of
the dog and will automatically become a noose (possibly causing
damage to the dog) if the dog changes sides or the handler puts it on
Martigales: The check choke (sent out with alot of the
rescues) is the collar I am suggesting most in cases. It is flat nylon,
with a chain loop, allowing for a good solid restriction correction, but
does not restrict air flow. There is also no right or wrong way to put
them on; they just slip over the dog's head and are fitted to the neck,
with the stop rings being about an inch apart. If a dog has been allowed
to pull previously, one of the more obtrusive pieces of equipment above
may be necessary until the dog can be weaned back to the check choke.
Premier or Lupine collars are same as above, but all
in nylon; these are commonly seen on grey hound and dogs with sensitive
necks but still in need of some correction. IMHO the best collar to use
just before stepping down to the plain buckle ID collar.
All of the above equipment is for training use and should not
be left on an unattended dog. All dogs should wear a flat collar with
ID at all times. No matter how well we train them, they will never be
able to recite their name, address and phone number.
Pulling on leash: This behavior (above all others) is
more a matter of consistency and patience on the handler's part. First,
imagine going shopping with a very elderly person who moves excruciatingly
slow... that is what our dogs must feel like when walking with us. Second,
also remember that dogs are perpetual optimists- they will think "if
it worked once it will work again"; so, if your dog has ever been
allowed to pull or drag you along, they will attempt it every time without
One of my favorite stories is of an elderly couple coming
in the first night of obedience class with a 20 lb Schnoodle, in a harness,
dragging them at the end of the leash. This dog looked like a small Husky
with its shoulders thrust forward; I don't doubt it could have pulled
two or three hundred pounds. The wife had two black eyes and a broken
nose, apparently the one year old dog had pulled her down a week previous.
The husband declared he did not care if the dog learned anything else
in class, but if it did not quit pulling, they would have to "get
rid of it, which would break both their hearts". I explained that
it was a matter of making a commitment that the leash would never get
tight when you are in motion.
You can do anything, from standing still until the dog returns and the
leash is slack, to pulling the dog so hard it flips over backwards. You
can use any piece of equipment from a true spike collar (MUCH worse than
a pinch collar) to a regular harness, but you can never
move if the leash is tight! The only time the leash is ever
tight is if you are correcting the dog, and you are in mid jerk.
Well, quite honestly, the pulling behavior appeared so ingrained in this
pup, and the owner so conditioned to restraint, that I did not hold out
much hope for success with this team. Week two of class, they arrive with
Muffy walking politely at the man's side. There was NO PULLING,
even less on a harness!!! You could have knocked me over with a feather!
In shock, I asked 'how did they do it?' He replied "I figured I am
retired, what else do I have to do? So the first day, it took us 45 minutes
to get off the front porch; day two, only 50 minutes to the drive way."
After a week of training he was able to go down the block on a loose lead.
He sheepishly announced they had arrived at the school at 5:45 for our
7:00 class. And I wondered why they were 15 minutes early.
Can you see me? Sniffing and circling, sniffing and circling,
Nose to the ground, nose to the ground,
Can you see me? Urgent now,
I'm to bust, I'm to bust,
Too late deed is done.
"Stupid dog" she says; "Why can't you tell me when you need to go out?"
1. Rule out all medical issues, such as
kidney, bladder and incontinence. If a dog is unable to control themselves,
punishment is not fair. DO NOT assume that because a
pet can hold it for longer times when resting or sleeping that it is not
a medical issue; there may be problems that are not immediately apparent.
2. Confine and supervise the dog/puppy.
He/she should be with you at all times, or in the crate or other confinement
area. All dogs, (especially those who are using their owners homes as
a toilet), need to have an area for safe confinement.
3. TAKE the dog to the same area outdoors
each time and reward them when they go. Do not let them out and just assume
they are doing their business. It's possible to train dogs to signal when
they need out; many dogs are successful at learning to ring a bell to
let you know when nature is calling them.
4. When the dog makes a mistake in the
house, immediately remove them from area of the "accident" as soon as
you discover it. NEVER take the dog back for correction
while the mess is still there.
(The area should be cleaned, but not in the dog's presence,
as it appears submissive when we show interest in their waste and confusing
to them that we are then repulsed by it. Watch how puppies follow and
will even sometimes eat stools of a more dominant individual).
5. Cleaning the area: make certain you
do not use a product with ammonia, as it spreads the
urine scent and will promote the dog returning to the same spot (I use
club soda and dish soap). Once it is clean, swab the area with white vinegar
and return with the dog (vinegar is an alternate acidic odor).
6. Correction: while holding the dog on
leash, and looking at the area of the mess (not the dog!!),
throw a 20 second hissy fit about how much this upsets you. Regardless
of what the correction is for, if you look at a dog while giving a correction
rather than at the object or area of your displeasure, more often than
not they become more distracted by, and focused on, your anger
rather than their transgression. Voicing your displeasure, while
directing attention over violated territory such as the area where they
had an accident or where they spread trash on the floor, rather than making
eye contact with the dog, keeps them focused on the mistake. After the
correction (your 'voiced displeasure'), take the leash off of the dog
and keep her/him in the same room as you, but totally ignore them; not
even eye contact for 15 minutes. Often, they will sniff around and check
the area out during your ignoring period, glancing furtively back at you.
Retraining the Adult Dog:
Back to the Top
When accidents 1 through 3 occur, make the dog quickly smell a clean paper
towel with vinegar on it. For accidents 3 and thereafter, make the dog
QUICKLY taste the vinegar on the paper towel.
Again, make certain to rule out any medical problems, especially with
older dogs that 'know better' or show sudden changes in their habits.
Michigan Weimaraner Rescue Inc. Copyright 2007